Gai Jatra – Nepali carnival
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Kuber Chalise
Kathmanduites honour death, an inevitable truth, by celebrating Gai Jatra on Bhadra Sukla Pratipada, the first day of Bhadra, according to the Lunar Calendar. Hindu scriptures explain human body as a whole universe. Life is a creation and death is destruction. Thus, on Gai Jatra day life honours inseparable duo, death.
It is said that the door of Chitragupta, a Puranic judge who takes notes of one’s nobility and sins, opens only once a year, on this day. And all the departed souls on this day leave for the eternity through his door. While leaving this planet the deads want them to be remembered by their kins. To fulfill their wishes, Valleyites whose relatives have died within a year come out on the street in a procession with real cows or children clad-like cow, representing the real one or clad like Jogi –holy men.
Only cow can help the dead ones to cross a mythical river Baitarini, while traveling to eternity. On can, according to the belief, cross Baitarini only clinging to the tail of a cow. Thus the festival got the name Gai Jatra in the honour of sacred cows.
The procession followed by the drums and the festivities must go through Durbar Square in Kathmandu . History has it that King Partap Malla ordered all his countrymen to follow this path to console his queen, who due to the untimely death of her son was sad and was in no mood to accept the inevitable.
By showing her that not only she but a lot in this kingdom has lost their kins but they accept this as a rule; One who borns has to die. The Gai Jatra parade then dispelled her grief.
Though this festival is celebrated only in Kathmandu valley, the three sister cities of the valley has their own way to celebrate this day. The medieval city of Bhaktapur has more fun fare and musical troupe to follow the procession. Ghintang Kisi is the typical Bhaktapure musical tradition to celebrate Gai Jatra. While Patan celebrates Gai Jatra by taking out the procession of cows and the little girls follow the procession.
In the night Ramayan dance, Bhairav dance and Devi dances are the major attraction of the locals.
Though the country has 12-years of democratic experience. One is free to express oneself according to the new constitution. But Gai Jatra, in modern days also has interpreted as a day to express the discontent of the people. Newspapers publish special editions, satirical articles and cartoons. The wrongdoings of the government are highlighted and made fun of on this day.
The valleyites, especially the Newar community celebrates this day as Saparu. Lalit Bistar, a Buddhist scripture adds some description about Saparu. According to this Buddhist scripture, Kama - lust, Krodh – anger, lova –greed and egos tried to disturb Lord Buddha by making noise and creating different kinds of images while he was in meditation but could not perturb him. To mark the day the day is celebrated by making noises, fun and drum beats.
Gai Jatra, a traditional carnival, has religious, historical, cultural and the social significance in our society.
